At Donna Karan for fall the goal was to take career dressing and “turn it on its head.” Working women will be pleased to find elegant velvet suits in a shade of “chocolate plum” straight from Karan’s own archives; tailored jackets with dramatic shawl lapels secured with gold Robert Lee Morris-inspired buttons; and modern body-con iterations made from compact crepe knits. The design team also took Karan’s go-to brushed jersey and redeveloped it for a new generation—and a new price point. The artfully draped slim dresses and sweaters often come with built-in statement belts decorated with abstract gold buckles, and while their fabric is as light as the classic cotton jersey that can be found elsewhere, it has a more expensive feel and grown-up look.
But this season, the label seemed to have hit a sweet spot with its occasion dressing, which was all about classic body-hugging shapes in luxurious textures; long bias cut gowns in liquid satin, sumptuous burnout velvets, and lots and lots of sequins. Those pieces could work just as well for a formal work event, weddings, or even a senior prom. Ditto a gold-foiled velvet suit that was made for the dazzling sparkle of a disco ball, not the florescent lights of a board room. Gold is to Donna Karan what red is to Valentino.
Rounding out the offering was a section of handsome outerwear: a traditional black overcoat with “ocelot” fur collar was a standout, ditto a suede trench coat with embossed python print. At $600 to $800, it’s sure to be at the higher end of the brand’s pricepoint, but the idea is for it to be part of a woman’s classic wardrobe. Said the team, “These aren’t buy now, wear now items. We want these pieces to be timeless, the same way as when Donna had the collection herself.”
