If you have darker skin, don’t write it off: While professionals used to discourage those with dark skin types against laser hair removal, new technologies, like the Nd:YAG laser (an in-office option), are effective for a wider range of skin tones. But it should always be in the hands of an expert who has experience with your skin type, as they can take extra safety precautions, too. “Generally, we also use more conservative settings, so it might take more sessions,” Carroll says.
And unfortunately, if your hair is white, red, or extremely light blond, lasers won’t be much help. “Laser does not work on white or red hair because there is no pigment or melanin,” Carroll explains. Again, some newer laser technologies can work, but you’re better off finding a specialist so you don’t waste your money.
If you’re ready to give it a go, you’ve got two options: professional treatments and at-home devices. Professional sessions can range from $75-$600 per session, depending on the area, while at-home devices are usually a few hundred bucks upfront.
Professional Laser Hair Removal
Professional laser hair removal is more effective than at-home treatments because the lasers used are much more powerful. (Although you can achieve similar results at home, it will take many more sessions.) In the right hands, professional laser hair removal is very safe. “We first evaluate the skin and hair type to ensure the treatment will be safe and effective,” Carroll says. “Our devices also have built-in safety features such as cooling systems and melanin detectors.” That’s why it’s important to choose an established clinic overseen by a doctor—preferably a dermatologist. Carroll also emphasizes finding an aesthetician that is experienced with your skin type. The clinic should also have a variety of lasers available for hair removal so the dermatologist can customize your treatment.
At-Home Laser Hair Removal
At-home devices are a much cheaper option—especially if you plan to target multiple areas—but require more time and energy. Many at-home devices are IPL (intense pulsed light), a.k.a. not true lasers, and although they are safer, they’re up to 25 percent less effective than in-office treatment, especially for darker skin types. While they still effectively remove hair, because the devices aren’t as powerful, it takes many more consistent treatments to achieve the same results.
“While the at-home devices are much less expensive, you must consider… whether you are willing to commit to the at-home treatment plan,” Carroll says. It might be practical for the back of your neck or your stomach trail, but if you’re trying to tackle your entire back, be prepared to carve out some serious time in your schedule.
To shop, Carroll suggests the following:
- Make sure the device is FDA-cleared.
- Research the device’s reviews, especially from people with your skin tone and hair type.
- Beware of big promises. “If the device’s promises seem too good to be true, then they likely are,” she says.
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How to Use An At-Home Laser Hair Removal Device Safely
Consistency is key for at-home laser hair removal—the more you stick with it, the better results you’ll experience. “Make a schedule for yourself and set reminders so you can follow the recommended treatment schedule,” Carroll says. If you’re worried about how your skin will react, Carroll recommends doing a small test patch before you commit to a full session.
When you’re ready to zap, make sure you’ve shaved the area about 24 hours before treatment—if you do it too close to the treatment, the laser may not be able to target the hairs. Read the manufacturer’s instructions, which will tell you how many passes to take over each area and how often to schedule your sessions.
As for risks? They’re low—but not nonexistent. “If done properly, there is a slight risk of burns and possible irritation,” she says. “Keep the setting low until you see how your skin reacts, then gradually work up to higher settings following the manufacturer’s guidelines.” Post-treatment care will be minimal. Slap on some moisturizer to hydrate, and be sure to wear SPF or protect your skin from the sun with clothing.
Pretty simple! Do it right, and you’ll spend less time grooming and more time enjoying your smooth, hair-free self—no razor burn in sight.