Atlein Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Somehow, in getting to the Atlein show, I took a wrong turn. Designer Antonin Tron has been showing at the same venue, a cavernous room under the Bambini restaurant at the Palais de Tokyo, for seasons now. But when someone asked me if I was going to the show I
Hermès Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
“It’s really about being assertive. It’s about strength. About being sexy and sophisticated—and just owning it.” It was just brilliant to hear Nadège Vanhée make this statement on, as it happens, International Women’s Day. And even more so to see the dark, lean-line collection she sent out to walk the
Matières Fécales Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Matières Fécales is not just further proof that anything can sound chic in French. It is also Paris fashion’s Next Big Little Thing. The Little is necessary because founding couple Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, who first met at pattern-cutting school in Montreal a decade ago, have shaped
Gauchere Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
When the world goes disconcertingly haywire, Marie-Christine Statz finds solace in color and working on materiality and light. “We need to find pleasure in what we’re doing every day, in the concrete world of creating clothes, but also by looking at things differently,” the designer said during a visit to
Caroline Hu Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Even without explanation, it was obvious that Caroline Hu was mining more from her dream theme that emerged last season. From the padded (handmade) flower cutouts floating across tulle that resembled bed quilting, to the enlarged volumes that looked like duvets skillfully transformed into gowns, her succinct lineup of 17
Acne Studios Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
“There’s definitely, definitely, definitely no logic to human behavior. But yet so, yet so irresistible.” That line from Björk’s “Human Behavior” didn’t quite apply to this Acne Studios collection by Jonny Johansson—because the logic behind the collection was shaped by her song. Johansson had rewatched its fairytale video, complete with
Renaissance Renaissance Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
With her fall 2025 collection, Cynthia Merhej found herself free to take Renaissance Renaissance into new territory. It started with last November’s cease-fire and a political shift at home in Lebanon. “For the first time, I feel like I can plan ahead,” she said during a showroom visit. “There’s finally
All-In Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
LVMH Prize finalists Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In are leaning into multitasking. Having recently published a folio of backstage looks from their spring Uptown Girl show (which referenced the 1988 movie), the duo moved into a new light-filled work space, which is where the designers (who shows
Petar Petrov Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Disposition and geography set Vienna’s Petar Petrov brand apart, and its founder and designer likes it that way. Distance from the four major fashion cities can create some logistical hurdles, but it allows Petrov the freedom to devise his own system of working with little interference and perhaps a less
Loro Piana Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
From English aristos to Argentine gauchos via Australian drovers, Loro Piana’s handsome menswear and womenswear collections for the season were designed to evoke life in the saddle. Patterned intarsia knit sweaters vaguely recalled jockey colors, and there were riding boots aplenty in the brand’s Milan showroom for a static installation
