You don’t enter Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park through a gate—and you don’t need a pass to visit its protected lands. In fact, the first time I drove through the Cairngorms, I didn’t even realize I had entered the park. Heading north from Edinburgh, the landscape suddenly shifted to rolling moorland, rounded peaks, and pastoral scenery so photogenic, I couldn’t help but pull over to the side of the road and take pictures every few miles.

“The tops of our mountains may not be as dramatic as some of the peaks on the west coast of Scotland, but for me, it’s the recesses that are really magical,” says Lotti Papastavrou Brooks, a herder at Cairngorm Reindeer Herd, referencing the lochs, coires (glacial bowls), and glens within the park. Annie Armstrong, the founder of Wild Braemar, has similar views, adding that the Cairngorms are a “juxtaposition between something constant, stoic, and ancient and something ever-changing, dynamic, and alive.”

While the park’s natural beauty is the main draw to the area—especially for adventure seekers—this is a destination with activities for everyone. Unlike the national parks in the U.S., the Cairngorms are considered a populated national park, one that’s home to more than 18,000 residents living in its small towns and charming villages. There are whisky distilleries, water sports, a ski resort, and a five-star hotel that doubles as an art museum. You’ll even find Balmoral Castle, a favorite summer residence of the late Queen Elizabeth II, just off one of the main roads.

About half the size of Yellowstone, Cairngorms National Park is the largest national park in the United Kingdom. Still, according to Armstrong, travelers frequently make the mistake of rushing their trips to the area; in 2021, I made that error myself. “The temptation is to try and see all of Scotland in one go, resulting in only one or two nights in the Cairngorms,” she says. “I recommend slower travel. Take your time to really immerse and connect with this area.”

On my second trip to this part of the Scottish Highlands, I took that advice to heart—opting to spend a week wild swimming in the park’s crystal-clear rivers, hiking across its heather-covered hills, driving the winding, narrow roads that lead to some of the most breathtaking views in Scotland, and discovering the best ways to see this part of the country.

Read on to plan your own trip to Cairngorms National Park.

How to Get There

If you’re traveling to Scotland from the U.S., you’ll likely fly into Edinburgh. I’d recommend spending at least a day in the city to recuperate from jet lag before driving north, but you can also rent a car at the airport and immediately hop on the A9 toward Cairngorms National Park. You’ll reach Pitlochry, considered a gateway town to the park, in about an hour and a half. If you’re driving east from Glencoe or south from Inverness, you’ll likely enter through Newtonmore or Aviemore, respectively.

Aviemore is a popular resort town and active outdoor area, and it often serves as a basecamp for anyone traveling to the park by bus or train. If you’d prefer the public transportation option, you can find schedules and routes on Traveline Scotland. Alternatively, the Caledonian Sleeper train runs between London to Inverness, with a stop in Aviemore.

Know Before You Go

As you start planning your trip to the Cairngorms, it’s important to research the activities and places you’re most interested in and map out each location using Google Maps (or a similar app). There are no public roads through the mountain range in the middle of the park, so you’ll want to think about your journey as a giant loop. Most of the towns, villages, and points of interest on the west side of the park are connected by the A9; if you’re traveling through the east side of the park—through Glenshee and Braemar and up to Grantown-on-Spey—you can take the 90-mile scenic route known as the SnowRoads.

If camping is on your Cairngorms wish list, you’ll need to brush up on the rules and regulations behind Scotland’s “right to roam” access rights. Thanks to the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, anyone can access the outdoors—forests, hills, moorland, etc.—but Brooks stresses that visitors should keep in mind the “leave no trace” principle included in the code. Additionally, she says, it’s best to set up your campsite away from any buildings or roads. “You frequently see people parking at the side of the road and setting up camp next to their cars; this is not appropriate and you may be moved on by local rangers,” she says. If you’re an experienced backpacker—and familiarize yourself with any restrictions in the area—you can even camp on or around some of the highest mountains (or munros) in the U.K.: Ben Macdui, the Cairn Gorm, Braeriach, Cairn Toul, and Sgor an Lochain Uaine.

Best Time to Visit

Both Armstrong and Brooks recommend visiting Cairngorms National Park in either the spring or the fall. In the spring, notes Armstrong, you’ll get amazing flowers; this time of the year is also when many new animals are born, so it’s ideal timing for those travelers interested in local fauna. “In September, you have the pink heather blooming,” she adds. The gorgeous shade is just one part of the autumn color palette, though. “The colors in the woodland, with the contrasting yellowing birch and evergreen Scots pine and the low light of autumn, make it one of the most scenic times of the year,” adds Brooks.

To avoid crowds, you’ll want to plan your trip around any U.K. bank holidays and summer vacation. Summer is also less than ideal due to what Brooks describes as “Scotland’s most common biting fly.” Midges tend to come out between June to September, and she says they’re particularly an issue if you’re camping.

No matter when you’re visiting the park, be sure to pack the proper outerwear and plenty of layers; Brooks notes that it’s not uncommon to experience all four seasons in one day.

Best Things to Do

Feed Britain’s only free-ranging herd of reindeer. 

If you’ve ever wanted to see reindeer up close, book a hill walk with the Cairngorm Reindeer Herd. Led by one of the expert herders, your group will head out on a 30- to 40-minute walk across relatively rough ground to find the herd—so you must wear supportive boots or other appropriate footwear. When you reach the herd, you’ll be able to feed them directly from your hand (and snap some photos, too). “Being the only sub-arctic ecosystem in Scotland, the Cairngorms is the only place where reindeer can free-range in their natural environment,” explains Brooks.

Go hiking.

If there’s one must-do in the Cairngorms, it’s either go for a walk or a nice long hike. “We have some of the finest hill and forest trails in Scotland with something for everyone, from low-level gentle woodland walks to some big mountain routes,” says Brooks. It’s possible to go alone—just pre-download your trail map beforehand—but following a guide may be more beneficial. “If you go with a guide they can teach you the different types of trees and plants and show you areas where the forest is returning thanks to conservation work,” says Armstrong. Trek Scotland, Cairngorm Adventure Guides, AP Mountaineering, and Hillgoers all offer various hikes and walks through the park.

Brave the cold waters while wild swimming.

“We are lucky to have many beautiful lochs and rivers perfect for swimming in,” says Brooks, who recommends “either joining a group or hiring a guide” if you’re new to wild swimming. Through her company Wild Braemar, Armstrong leads her own wild swimming experiences and even pairs them with a portable riverside sauna and cozy wilderness tent she sets up for guests.

Explore Cairngorm Mountain.

Scotland might not necessarily be known for skiing, but Cairngorm Mountain in Aviemore has a ski area that opens during the winter. In the milder months, guests can enjoy the tubing park, the mountain carting track, and the walking and mountain biking trails, and they can even ride up Scotland’s only funicular railway, which reaches nearly 3,600 feet above sea level.

Places to Stay

The Fife Arms

“For those looking for a special luxury experience, I must recommend The Fife Arms,” says Armstrong. The five-star gem is certainly the most opulent property within the park—or in Scotland, for that matter. Known for its distinct design (lots of tartan, taxidermy, and an art collection that includes works by Picasso and Queen Victoria), it’s both a luxe place to stay and an experience in and of itself.

Cairngorm Bothies

If you want all the comforts of home with a touch of the outdoors, reserve one of the standalone Cairngorm Bothies, just outside Aboyne. The self-catering units are eco-friendly and outfitted with walk-in showers, a wood-burning range, and a refrigerator; think of it as upgraded camping.

Glenmore Campsite

“The Glenmore Campsite, situated in the woodland at the shore of Loch Morlich, is one of the most beautiful spots in Scotland,” says Brooks. You can bring your own tent, camper van, or RV, and reservations can be made online. While there’s no public Wi-Fi at the campsites, there are toilets, showers, drinkable tap water, and battery-charging facilities, among other amenities.

The Balavil Hotel

The Balavil Hotel, a family-run property, combines local charm with a convenient location. The rooms themselves are pretty standard—you’ll have a comfortable place to sleep after a day of outdoor adventure—but the location ensures you’re within a quick drive of Aviemore. Depending on the season, you’ll also be right by the Highland Folk Museum, an open-air museum that highlights life in the Highlands from the 1700s to the 1950s.

Places to Eat

Fish Shop

Armstrong says you “can’t beat” the Fish Shop, a Michelin-recognized seafood restaurant in Ballater. She credits the “incredible food, service, and a meticulous ethos toward sustainability” for its must-visit status, and you can expect the menu, which changes daily, to include elevated dishes with local touches—like Shetland mussels with Scottish cider and leeks or smoked haddock rarebit on Balmoral bread.

The Penny Bun

“For finer dining, The Penny Bun, based at Badaguish, pride themselves on using locally sourced and foraged ingredients to make some really fantastic food,” says Brooks. Although the food is on the more upscale end of the spectrum, the restaurant notes that “kids, dogs, bikes, and muddy boots are welcome.”

The Flying Stag

Located inside The Fife Arms, The Flying Stag is an ode to the hotel’s former life as a hunting lodge. It’s more casual than the property’s other restaurant, The Clunie Dining Room, and the menu features a range of hearty pub classics—including fish and chips, haggis, burgers, and beef cheek and Guinness pie.

The Old Bridge Inn

There’s nothing like a simple pub meal at the end of an activity-filled day in the Cairngorms. If your itinerary brings you through Aviemore, you’ll find just that—plus a wood-burning stove and a buzzy bar—at The Old Bridge Inn, located on the banks of the River Spey.